Perpignan probably isn’t everyone’s first choice for a weekend break in the south of France, but then Perpignan isn’t your average French city. The richly historic city’s near identity crisis as a Catalan stronghold in France means it has the character, food and culture to make it a serious contender for a 48-hour get away, helped further by its easy accessibility from the UK and its welcoming warm Mediterranean climate.
Things to See and Do
Perpignan’s population of 300,000 are mostly sprawled out away from the city’s centre, which is made up of a picturesque old town and a more modern business and shopping districts. Though the shops and restaurants are decent enough for a quick look in the newer parts of town, head to the old town to explore the history and culture of French Catalonia that gives Perpignan its unique character.
Le Castillet
Slap bang in the middle of the city centre and on the cusp between old and new Perpignan, is the Castillet, which refers to the impressive looking turret of a fourteenth century gateway to the city.
Entry for a handful of Euros gains you access to enjoy the views at the top and also visit the Catalan Museum of Popular Arts, which is dedicated to celebrating Languedoc-Roussilon’s Catalan history, culture and crafts.
Cathédrale St-Jean
Sticking with Perpignanais buildings originating from the 1300s, head further into the old town to Place Léon Gambetta and you’ll find the city’s Cathédrale Saint-Jean.
A beautifully crafted cathedral, pop inside to marvel at the interior architecture which features striking Catalan ornaments and a wooden crucifix believed to date back to the 1400s.
Campo Santo
Around the corner to the rear of the cathedral you will stumble upon one of the oldest cemeteries in France, Campo Santo; a surprisingly quiet and peaceful place to rest in an alcove for a few moments and remark upon the dramatic white marble gothic architecture. It is also reportedly the only cloister-cemetery in the country.
Palais des Rois de Majorque
Overlooking Perpignan from the south is the Palais des Rois de Majorque, or the Palace of the Kings of Majorca and it is worth a climb up the hill for a visit. Parts of the palace are believed to be as old as the late thirteenth century but the chunky walls you now see are a little younger, from the late 1600s. An impressive royal palace in its time its architecture has hints of Moorish, Arabic and Spanish influences. There are often art or photo exhibitions on display within the Palace buildings so keep an eye out for anything good on when there.
Before you descend back down, take a moment to sit among the palm trees outside the Palace and admire the view which stretches all the way to the seasonally snow capped Pyrenees. Though be warned, thanks to these picturesque mountains there is often a “tranmuntana” wind blowing down through the streets of Perpignan so don’t let this catch you unaware on your way down or up to the Palace.
Arab and Romany Quarter
As you climb down from the Palace and head west you’ll find yourself in a less touristy part of the old town now predominantly populated by Arab and Romany families which throws in additional flavours to the French-Catalan recipe of Perpignan.
This is where you’ll find a decent north African coffee or kebab and a reasonably priced bag of delicious baklava. There are also animated daily markets in Place Joseph Cassanyes where you can buy any kind of spice or herb under the sun or you may choose to try some of the delicious cooked market stall food as a cheap lunch or snack.
Collioure
Fancy escaping the city briefly to explore a different part of French Catalonia? A 25-minute train ride (trains run roughly every hour) or a half hour car journey towards the Spanish border will take you to a small but historically important coastal town popular with Perpignan locals, Spanish neighbours and tourists alike for its views, beachfront restaurants and relaxed atmosphere.
Walk along the sea front before climbing a few steps to reach Notre-Dame-des-Anges church and look back at the view of the town. For more historical exploring head to the impressive Chateau Royal de Collioure, a one time strategically important palace and fortress for centuries of French and Spanish royals, emperors and battles in the region. It is believed that there has been a palace on the site since the Roman Empire.
A popular source of inspiration to many famous artists over the years, including Pablo Picasso, Collioure works hard to maintain its arty air. It’s easy to get lost in the town’s alleyways, which house art galleries, and boutique shops. Before heading back to the city lights of Perpignan maybe grab a seat at a seafront bar to enjoy a glass of Banyuls, the locally grown sweet red wine.
